AutoSew: A Geometric Approach to Stitching Prediction with Graph Neural Networks

Digital sewing patterns typically consist of disjoint 2D panels without explicit stitch annotations, making downstream 3D modeling reliant on labor-intensive expert specification. In this paper, we present a graph-based learning framework that reconstructs two-level stitching information, coarse panel connectivity and fine-grained seam correspondence, from 2D panel geometry alone. At the coarse level, panel connectivity is inferred by predicting panel semantics associated with anatomical body regions, enforcing consistency with body structure and garment design conventions. Based on the reconstructed panel graph, fine-grained seam correspondences between panel pairs are inferred by learning latent edge representations that jointly encode local seam geometry and global garment context through graph message passing. The resulting edge embeddings are subsequently decoded into detailed seam correspondences. Our method supports complex sewing-pattern topologies, including many-to-one correspondences, intra-panel seams, and curved seams. Experiments demonstrate high stitching accuracy and strong generalization across garment styles.

Creating digital garments from existing two-dimensional patterns remains a time-consuming process. Although patterns are widely available in digital form, their assembly in garment CAD software involves manual definition of sewing operations and arrangement of the pattern panels for drape simulation. We present two learning-based approaches that automate both tasks using the 2D vector pattern as their sole input. Our automatic sewing model operates at the segment level, leveraging a Transformer encoder with multiple prediction heads. Our novel architecture supports many-to-many, ordered segment correspondences, as well as hems, overlapping seams needed for multilayer garments, and construction properties such as seam allowances and stitch types, required for the finished virtual garment but neglected by previous methods. A complementary panel-level model predicts body-region assignments, layers, and placement coordinates to initialize the drape simulation. We evaluate both models on a curated dataset of 4,035 professionally assembled garment instances. The sewing model exactly recovers all seam and hem topologies of 63.3% of test garments, while the arrangement model meets the specified placement criteria for all panels in 66.2% of test garments. We also integrate both methods into garment CAD software, demonstrating automatic assembly of successfully predicted garments.

Estimating sewing patterns from images is a practical approach for creating high-quality 3D garments, but it remains challenging due to the scarcity of paired real-world image and sewing-pattern data. Existing methods address this limitation by training vision-language models (VLMs) to learn low-level sewing-pattern representations from synthetic garments sampled from parametric garment models. However, they often struggle to generalize to in-the-wild images, fail to capture real-world correlations between garment parts, and are restricted to single-layer outfits. In contrast, we observe that VLMs are effective at describing garments in natural language, but mapping these descriptions into valid sewing patterns remains difficult. To bridge this gap, we propose NGL (Natural Garment Language), a novel domain-specific language that represents garments in terms aligned with VLMs' natural descriptive abilities. Leveraging NGL, we introduce a fully training-free pipeline that queries large VLMs to extract structured garment specifications and deterministically converts them into valid sewing patterns. We evaluate our method on the Dress4D, CloSe and a newly collected dataset of 253 in-the-wild fashion images. Our approach achieves state-of-the-art performance on standard geometry metrics and is preferred in both human and GPT-based perceptual evaluations compared to existing baselines. Furthermore, NGL recovers multi-layer outfits whereas competing methods focus mostly on single-layer garments, highlighting its strong generalization to real-world images even with occluded parts. These results demonstrate that an efficient garment representation is critical for sewing pattern estimation with VLMs. Our code and data will be released for research use.