The Climber's Grip -- Personalized Deep Learning Models for Fear and Muscle Activity in Climbing

Assessing human muscle fatigue is critical for optimizing performance and safety in physical human-robot interaction(pHRI). This work presents a data-driven framework to estimate fatigue in dynamic, cyclic pHRI using arm-mounted surface electromyography(sEMG). Subject-specific machine-learning regression models(Random Forest, XGBoost, and Linear Regression predict the fraction of cycles to fatigue(FCF) from three frequency-domain and one time-domain EMG features, and are benchmarked against a convolutional neural network(CNN) that ingests spectrograms of filtered EMG. Framing fatigue estimation as regression (rather than classification) captures continuous progression toward fatigue, supporting earlier detection, timely intervention, and adaptive robot control. In experiments with ten participants, a collaborative robot under admittance control guided repetitive lateral (left-right) end-effector motions until muscular fatigue. Average FCF RMSE across participants was 20.8+/-4.3% for the CNN, 23.3+/-3.8% for Random Forest, 24.8+/-4.5% for XGBoost, and 26.9+/-6.1% for Linear Regression. To probe cross-task generalization, one participant additionally performed unseen vertical (up-down) and circular repetitions; models trained only on lateral data were tested directly and largely retained accuracy, indicating robustness to changes in movement direction, arm kinematics, and muscle recruitment, while Linear Regression deteriorated. Overall, the study shows that both feature-based ML and spectrogram-based DL can estimate remaining work capacity during repetitive pHRI, with the CNN delivering the lowest error and the tree-based models close behind. The reported transfer to new motion patterns suggests potential for practical fatigue monitoring without retraining for every task, improving operator protection and enabling fatigue-aware shared autonomy, for safer fatigue-adaptive pHRI control.

Detecting which holds a climber uses, and when, underpins automated scoring, movement analysis, and assistive systems for sport climbing. Existing approaches train task-specific models or repurpose 2D pose estimators whose hand keypoint sits at the wrist and foot keypoint at the ankle i.e. offset from the fingertips and toes that actually contact the holds, and whose hands are occluded in roughly half of all frames. We show that a frozen, off-the-shelf pose foundation model is sufficient: using the fingertip and toe keypoints of Sapiens, a per-frame proximity test against the annotated holds, per-limb mutual exclusion, and a short temporal-persistence rule, we detect hold usage without any climbing-specific training. On the The Way Up dataset (22 videos, 10 athletes, two routes), our method reaches an event F_1 of 90.2% on a held-out split (89.8% under leave-one-participant-out cross-validation) and 79.9% over all 22 videos at any temporal overlap, and performs best on footholds (F_1,89.8% overall, 96.6% held-out). Under an identical protocol it exceeds our reproductions of the YOLOv8-pose and ViTPose pipelines at every temporal threshold, with the margin widening under strict timing. An ablation shows that two intuitively helpful additions---dense foundation-feature change gating and body-part segmentation---both hurt, arguing that a minimal, keypoint-only design is the right one for this task. Finally, standard coaching statistics computed from our automatic predictions track ground truth closely (Pearson r=1.00 for climb time, 0.94 for pace), turning ordinary single-camera video into reliable performance metrics with no instrumentation.

Estimating hip muscle forces and joint moments during gait typically relies on musculoskeletal simulation, which is informative but time-consuming and difficult to apply in clinical settings. This study developed a deep learning framework to predict these hip dynamics parameters directly from lower-limb gait kinematics and compared three representative sequence models under a unified protocol. Gait data were collected from 60 healthy adults under three metronome-guided cadence conditions. Ten bilateral lower-limb joint angles were used as inputs, and OpenSim-derived hip muscle forces and hip joint moments were used as reference outputs. Three deep learning models of LSTM, Transformer, and Mamba were trained and evaluated using the same subject-level split, preprocessing pipeline, and metrics. The best model was then directly tested on an external cohort of 9 patients with osteonecrosis of the femoral head (ONFH) without retraining. In the healthy-subject benchmark, Transformer achieved the best subject-level mean performance for both hip muscle force prediction (RMSE = 1.33 N/kg, MAE = 0.57 N/kg, R2 = 0.819) and hip joint moment prediction (RMSE = 0.11 Nm/kg, MAE = 0.07 Nm/kg, R2 = 0.862), with similar advantages across walking cadences. In zero-shot external validation, Transformer retained moderate predictive ability in ONFH for hip muscle force prediction (RMSE = 1.51 N/kg, MAE = 0.70 N/kg, R2 = 0.537) and hip joint moment prediction (RMSE = 0.17 Nm/kg, MAE = 0.12 Nm/kg, R2 = 0.569). These findings support the feasibility of estimating hip dynamics from gait kinematics, identify Transformer as a strong baseline, and highlight the need for broader pathological validation and improved generalization before clinical application.