Data-driven and physics-guided hindcasting of measured wave spectra

This study conducts a systematic hyperparameter search across five deep learning architectures, DLinear, LSTM, PatchTST, ResAttLstm, and Mamba2, and nine context lengths (1-168 h) for single-station significant wave height (Hs) forecasting on NDBC buoy 41009, followed by re-evaluation of the best configurations on a 47-buoy, 37-year corpus. The five families converge to a common performance level on the multi-buoy evaluation (between-family SD = 0.0014 m^2, 0.8% of the grand mean), a spread dwarfed by the 4.83x cross-dataset MSE shift between buoy corpora. All multi-buoy trials beat persistence (mean skill +0.062), but no architecture consistently outperforms the others. On the single-buoy experiment, skill peaks at 12-24 h where five trials fall below persistence, per-family Q4/Q3 test MSE ratios range from 2.4 to 2.6, and deep models underperform persistence for the most extreme 1% of waves. These findings are consistent with the interpretation that persistence already captures the dominant linear-inertial signal in univariate Hs, and that architecture engineering under this univariate input setting has reached diminishing returns: cross-buoy variance, not model class, dominates forecast error. Future work should prioritise atmospheric covariates, zero-shot cross-buoy transfer, and decomposition of Hs into swell and wind-sea components. By establishing a rigorous reference baseline for what univariate Hs models can and cannot achieve, this study provides a benchmark against which future multivariate and physics-informed approaches can be calibrated, and offers practical guidance for lightweight buoy-level forecasting in mid-latitude storm-dominated and swell-mixed environments.

Ocean wave forecasting is essential for maritime safety, offshore operations, and coastal resilience, yet remains challenging due to systematic biases in physics-based models. Physical models, while widely used, rely on approximations and parameterizations that limit their accuracy under complex ocean-atmosphere conditions. To enhance ocean wave forecasting, we propose BridgeCast, within a physics-AI hybrid framework for bias correction. BridgeCast is a probabilistic model based on conditional flow matching (CFM) that learns to transform physical model forecasts into reanalysis-like fields. It treats physical forecasts as corrupted observations and employs a continuous-time generative process to bridge their distribution toward that of reanalysis data. BridgeCast is parameterized by a Transformer-based architecture that enables spatiotemporal modeling, incorporation of exogenous atmospheric variables, and flexible inference via both ordinary and stochastic differential equation formulations. Extensive experiments on real-world datasets demonstrate that BridgeCast consistently outperforms state-of-the-art baselines across regions and forecast lead times.

Sea state prediction is essential for operational maritime applications and coupled earth system modeling, yet current spectral wave models remain computationally prohibitive for many use cases, including online coupling to climate simulations and making probabilistic (ensemble-based) predictions. While deep learning has recently demonstrated strong performance in weather forecasting, existing AI-based wave models are predominantly deterministic and largely limited to bulk variables such as significant wave height, leaving probabilistic sea state estimation largely unexplored. In this work, we propose a diffusion-based generative model for global sea state estimation that conditions on a relatively long history (5 days) of global wind forcing. This generative model directly samples the complex conditional distribution of sea state without autoregressive time-stepping. Unlike prior approaches, our framework naturally extends beyond bulk variables to estimate partition-related variables and derived quantities, such as Stokes drift and mean square slope. Trained on a 30-year global WAVEWATCH-III hindcast, the model achieves substantial computational acceleration compared with numerical spectral models while delivering skillful predictions and a calibrated ensemble spread for the bulk variables. Our results suggest that diffusion-based sea state sampling offers a promising path toward probabilistic wave forecasting and efficient coupling of sea state information into broader earth system models.